3 Japanese Fabrics Every Crafter Should Know
Japan is home to some of the world’s most unique and beautifully made textiles. The way threads are twisted, the tools used in weaving, and the preparation of dyes all reflect traditional knowledge developed over generations.
Among the many textiles produced in Japan, a few stand out for their distinctive textures, colors, and cultural significance. In this article, we take you on a guided tour through three beloved Japanese fabrics: Kinran, the luminous gold brocade once reserved for the most formal garments; Chirimen, a crepe fabric known for its gentle texture and refined drape; and Aizome, indigo-dyed cotton.
Kinran: Japanese Gold Brocade
What is gold Brocade?
Kinran, also known as gold brocade, is a traditional Japanese brocade fabric woven with gold threads. It is known for its shimmering surface and intricate patterns, often used in ceremonial clothing, temple decorations, and luxury accessories.
The word “Kinran” combines two characters: 金 (kin), meaning gold, and 襴 (ran), meaning decorative fabric.
Kinran was introduced to Japan from China during the 13th century and became widely produced in Kyoto’s Nishijin district, known for high-end woven textiles. At the time, Kinran was a sign of wealth, power, and spiritual beauty. It decorated Buddhist temples, scrolls, and elite garments.
How is Gold Brocade Made?
Gold brocade is woven on a shuttle loom using a traditional technique called honkinhiki-baku. To create the gold threads, gold leaf is applied to lacquered washi paper, cut into fine strips, and wrapped around silk yarn. Silver or platinum may also be used.
Because the gold threads are delicate, the process is slow and requires skilled craftsmanship. After weaving, the fabric is inspected, lightly starched for durability, and may be treated for moisture resistance. Each stage is typically handled by different artisans.
Design and Use of Gold Brocade
Japanese gold brocade is known for its soft golden shine, which shows more clearly in dim or low-light areas. This soft glow reflects the traditional Japanese style, which values subtle beauty over showiness.
In the past, Kinran was often used for Buddhist altar cloths, scrolls, Noh and Kabuki costumes, and special ceremonial clothing. It has also been widely used for kimono accessories, and even traditional rugs.
These applications reflect gold brocade’s strong association with formality, celebration and artistic refinement.
Today, gold brocade has found new life in modern settings. Crafters and designers now use it for home decor pieces like tablecloths, cushion covers, and wall hangings.
It’s also become a popular choice for festival costumes and handmade items such as bags and pouches.
While the base techniques remain rooted in tradition, contemporary versions of gold brocade may include accents like pearl powder or silver leaf, allowing the fabric to express both heritage and innovation.
Handling Tips
Working with gold brocade requires some care, but it's very rewarding once you know how to handle it.
- Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to get clean cuts and avoid pulling the threads
- Test a small area before ironing, and always use low heat with a pressing cloth
- Store the fabric flat or rolled in tissue paper to keep it from getting creased
Because Kinran is expensive and usually sold in short lengths, it is perfect for projects where a little goes a long way.
Shop Gold Brocade online:
Chirimen: Japanese Crepe Fabric
What is Chirimen Fabric?
Chirimen, or crepe fabric, is a traditional Japanese textile known for its slightly crinkled surface and smooth drape. The name comes from the word “chiri,” which refers to small waves or ripples, describing the fabric’s signature texture.
Chirimen was developed during the Edo period and still produced today using traditional weaving methods, especially in the Tango region of Kyoto Prefecture.
What makes Chirimen Unique?
Unlike general crepe fabrics, Chirimen is made by tightly twisting the weft threads (the threads woven horizontally) before and during weaving. This technique creates a fine, bumpy texture called Shibo, which gives Chirimen its distinctive look and feel. The surface has gentle ripples that reflect light in subtle ways, adding depth and elegance.
While crepe fabrics exist in many cultures, Chirimen stands out for its craftsmanship and heritage. It’s often made with silk and is valued not just for clothing but also for crafts and ceremonial uses. It holds its shape well and has a soft, luxurious touch.
Design and Use of Chirimen
Chirimen is deeply rooted in Japanese tradition, commonly seen in kimono, haori, and obi accessories. Its soft structure and refined texture have made it a go-to fabric for ceremonial clothing, tea ceremony items, and seasonal interior accents. Crepe fabric remains popular today, especially with crafters and textile artists, because it combines beauty and practicality.
Crepe fabric’s soft drape and lightweight feel make it ideal for modern garments like dresses, blouses, and scarves.
Beyond fashion, the fabric’s unique texture and flexibility make it popular for handmade items and home décor.
Handling Tips
- Use fine needles: A fine, sharp needle (such as size 70/10 or 75/11) helps avoid snags and puckering.
- Pin sparingly: Too many pins may leave marks: use clips or fine pins when necessary.
- Sew with a straight stitch: A short straight stitch (around 2.0–2.5 mm) works well; test on a scrap piece first.
- Iron gently: Use a low heat setting with a pressing cloth to avoid shine or damage.
- Avoid stretching: Handle carefully while sewing, as crepe can stretch out of shape.
- Know the fiber content: Polyester chirimen can be washed with water, but rayon chirimen shrinks easily, so extra care is required.
Explore our Chirimen fabric options online:
Japanese Indigo-Dyed Cotton (Aizome)
What is Aizome?
Aizome, or traditional Japanese indigo dyeing, refers to cotton (and sometimes linen or hemp) that has been dyed with naturally fermented indigo. This technique became particularly prominent during the Edo period and was widely practiced in Tokushima’s Awa region, known for its fertile conditions ideal for growing Japanese indigo plants. Aizome’s deep blue hue has earned it the nickname Japan Blue, reflecting its status as a cultural icon.
How is Aizome made?
The authentic aizome process begins by fermenting indigo leaves into sukumo, a compost-like substance that forms the foundation of the dye.
Skilled artisans take care of the dye bath by adding natural ingredients like wood ash water, rice bran, and sake, which help create the right conditions for the indigo to stick to the fabric and produce its deep blue color.
Cotton fabric or thread is dipped repeatedly into the vat and allowed to oxidize between dips. With each round, the fabric darkens and develops its characteristic depth. This slow, layered method not only produces a long-lasting color but also enhances the fabric’s softness and resilience.
Design and Use of Aizome
Authentic aizome, however, is relatively rare today. Traditionally dyed cotton requires careful handling, as it tends to fade and bleed with use. Most fabrics now available are indigo-style prints that replicate the look of aizome without the fermentation and hand-dyeing process. While these modern textiles do not carry the same heritage techniques, they capture the aesthetic while being more colorfast, affordable, and accessible for sewing and crafting.
Thanks to their soft texture, stitch-friendly weight, and visually rich patterns, indigo-style printed cottons remain a favorite among quilters, sashiko stitchers, and textile crafters.
They’re ideal for patchwork, boro-inspired projects, aprons, and accessories where a touch of Japanese heritage is desired, without the fading and bleeding concerns of real indigo dye.
Handling Tips
Working with indigo-style cotton is fairly simple, but if you’re using fabric that has undergone true indigo dyeing, keep a few things in mind:
- Always prewash separately in cold water to prevent dye transfer. Some bleeding is normal at first.
- Dry away from direct sunlight to preserve the color.
- Use a gentle machine setting, as the repeated dyeing process can slightly weaken fibers.
- Indigo prints, which are more common today, are more stable but should still be tested before combining with lighter fabrics.
Discover Yuzawaya’s Indigo-style printed fabrics:
Explore Yuzawaya Fabrics
Working with fabrics like Kinran, Chirimen, or Indigo-dyed cotton can bring a refreshing change to your creative routine. Their textures, colors, and patterns carry a unique charm that feels both traditional and easy to use.
Adding these materials into your work can open up new ideas and bring a different feel to your usual approach, all while keeping things practical and enjoyable.
At Yuzawaya, we offer a curated selection of traditional Japanese fabrics, including indigo-style printed cotton, gold brocade and crepe fabric, ideal for quilting, visible mending, and hand-sewn crafts. Explore our collection to find authentic materials for your next project.